Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Camped on the Kahiltna Glacier
The team moved out of Base Camp this morning and dropped down onto the immense Kahiltna Glacier. Leaving Base Camp, the route actually drops downhill as the Southeast Fork merges with the main body of the Kahiltna. They then slowly gained altitude as they made their way through a couple of crevassed areas on their way to camp.
One of our Kobler friends decided not to head out of Base Camp, and flew out to Talkeetna this morning. He is fine and just decided that the time for this expedition was not right for him.
The team single carried their way up glacier today, meaning that they packed up all of their kit and moved it up in a single push. From now on, they plan to "double carry" or move roughy half of their supplies at a time. This will enable them to carry their kit up to (or near) the next camp and then return to their previous camp. Climbers call this "Climb high and sleep low," and it allows you to acclimatize a bit, but sleep lower, thereby easing the transition to the next altitude.
One of our Kobler friends decided not to head out of Base Camp, and flew out to Talkeetna this morning. He is fine and just decided that the time for this expedition was not right for him.
The team single carried their way up glacier today, meaning that they packed up all of their kit and moved it up in a single push. From now on, they plan to "double carry" or move roughy half of their supplies at a time. This will enable them to carry their kit up to (or near) the next camp and then return to their previous camp. Climbers call this "Climb high and sleep low," and it allows you to acclimatize a bit, but sleep lower, thereby easing the transition to the next altitude.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Pics from Monday, April 26
Loading the trailer in Anchorage before heading north to Talkeetna.
The team, with the Alaska Range in the background, on the outskirts of Talkeetna.
Jedi-Master Dave Staeheli, weighing a food bag for the expedition.
Simon, weighing in before the expedition. We half joke that these are high-altitude weight loss programs. It is amazing how much weight these climbs burn off you!
Brigitte, getting ready for the Alaska Range!
Simon took some time to send off some postcards to some very special people.
TAT owner and veteran glacier pilot Paul Roderick is a master of loading heaps of gear into aircraft.
Newall, Ben, Craig and Nick loading into a ski-equipped Otter for the flight to Base Camp.
Yes, we fit all of that into two of these aircraft.At Base Camp!
The team drove up to Talkeetna this morning and flew to Base Camp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
We drove from Anchorage up to the growing and somewhat famous town of Wasilla, Alaska where we stopped for some food, coffee and tried our best to see Russia, as our former Vice Presidential candidate Sara Palin claims to be able to do. In her defense, it was a bit cloudy...
We continued up the road another hour or so to the quiet little town of Talkeetna, located, truly, at the end of the road. The team registered with the National Park Service and was treated to a nice orientation by Climbing Ranger Mike Shane. They then headed over to the airstrip where our friends at Talkeetna Air Taxi loaded all their equipment into two big, beautiful, ski-equipped Otter aircraft and taxied down the runway and took off for Base Camp.
Today was pretty busy with lots of equipment to be weighed and heaps of gear to move from one place to another, and another and another.
I'll post some pictures of the day in a subsequent dispatch.
We drove from Anchorage up to the growing and somewhat famous town of Wasilla, Alaska where we stopped for some food, coffee and tried our best to see Russia, as our former Vice Presidential candidate Sara Palin claims to be able to do. In her defense, it was a bit cloudy...
We continued up the road another hour or so to the quiet little town of Talkeetna, located, truly, at the end of the road. The team registered with the National Park Service and was treated to a nice orientation by Climbing Ranger Mike Shane. They then headed over to the airstrip where our friends at Talkeetna Air Taxi loaded all their equipment into two big, beautiful, ski-equipped Otter aircraft and taxied down the runway and took off for Base Camp.
Today was pretty busy with lots of equipment to be weighed and heaps of gear to move from one place to another, and another and another.
I'll post some pictures of the day in a subsequent dispatch.
Friday, April 23, 2010
Welcome to our Denali Expedition
Towering above the glaciated peaks of the Alaska Range, Denali stands as a beacon to climbers around the world. First climbed in 1913, Denali is the highest peak in North America, and is one of the famed Seven Summits. What sets Denali apart are its arctic temperatures and its proximity to the Bering Sea create arguably the most challenging weather of any big mountain.
On April 25, 2010, a team of climbers from Europe and Great Britain will gather in Anchorage, Alaska in preparation for an attempt of Denali. They will be joined by a team of Mountain Trip guides and will be prepared to spend 22 days climbing to the summit. Let's meet the team!
Guides:
Dave Staeheli from Palmer, AK
Nick Shepherd from Anchorage, AK
Craig Maxwell from Tacoma, WA
Paul Koller, guest guiding from the Tirol
Climbers:
Newall Hunter from Scotland
Leigh Williams from Wales
Simon Edwards from England
Ben Morrison from England
Richard Blackwell from the UK
and our friends from Kobler and Partner:
Bernhard Gehring from Switzerland
Brigitte Kroni from Switzerland
Jacques Fox from Luxembourg
Franz Shondorfer from Germany
We will post updates as often as we receive them, but please keep in mind that communication from the Alaska Range can be very challenging at time, with weather and tall mountains interfering with our ability to use our satellite phones. Keep in mind the axiom, "No News Is Good News," as we will always be informed if things go less than optimally.
On April 25, 2010, a team of climbers from Europe and Great Britain will gather in Anchorage, Alaska in preparation for an attempt of Denali. They will be joined by a team of Mountain Trip guides and will be prepared to spend 22 days climbing to the summit. Let's meet the team!
Guides:
Dave Staeheli from Palmer, AK
Nick Shepherd from Anchorage, AK
Craig Maxwell from Tacoma, WA
Paul Koller, guest guiding from the Tirol
Climbers:
Newall Hunter from Scotland
Leigh Williams from Wales
Simon Edwards from England
Ben Morrison from England
Richard Blackwell from the UK
and our friends from Kobler and Partner:
Bernhard Gehring from Switzerland
Brigitte Kroni from Switzerland
Jacques Fox from Luxembourg
Franz Shondorfer from Germany
We will post updates as often as we receive them, but please keep in mind that communication from the Alaska Range can be very challenging at time, with weather and tall mountains interfering with our ability to use our satellite phones. Keep in mind the axiom, "No News Is Good News," as we will always be informed if things go less than optimally.